This plan has been put on the backburner for a long time. I made this stool before discovering the wonder of the pocket jig, so there are screw holes all over. Needless to say, I’d recommend buying even the small pocket jig one instead of wasting money on wood filler Note, these plans use one 12″ boards, but I used two 6″ boards pieced together in these images (another good spot for pocket screws). The top was taken from a horrible stool I already had that tipped all the time ($5 at Micheals). These plans include making a top.
1″ x 12″ x ~ 30″ (FYI The real size of the board is 3/4″ x 11 1/4″) Home Depot sells 12″ boards by the foot.
1″ x 3″ x ~ 18″ (FYI The real size of the board is 3/4″ x 2 1/2″)
Pocket Jig (optional)
Saw (Miter/Chopsaw or Handsaw required, Jigsaw optional)
1) First off, cut the 12″ board into the top and side pieces. (You can optionally cut the top in the other direction, it requires an additional rip cut, but that grain direction looks a littler nicer).
2) Cut the side at 8.5° from the bottom. There’s an optional 1/8″ allowable distance from the edges for cutting space (sometimes needed for hand-sawing). The half circle is optional, but is not just atheistic and can help prevent rocking. Trace a circle from a dinner plate or bowl and use a jigsaw just the inside of circle. Use sandpaper to finish smoothing out the curve. If a circle seems too daunting, any other design would work… triangle, square, half star, etc… or just go without.
3) Cut the 1″ x 3″ into two 7.5″ long pieces.
(If you feel up to the challenge of flanged legs, my board was 7.5″ wide at the top and 7.75″ at the bottom of each support, making about a 2.86° flange. A little sanding of uppermost inner corner was required, because of the angle required to keep them flush with the angled edges of the sides. Alternately, you could chop 2.86° angle while the board is tipped on some scrap wood to make it 8.5°. Using the same side board for both supports, changes the flanges out the front a little, but still works and looks fine)
4) Screw the supports to the sides, keeping them flush with the edges of the sides. Use ether wood screws or pocket screws, along with some wood glue. Leave a small gap between the top and the support, so that the protruding side doesn’t interfere with attaching the top.
5) Bevel the edge of the top and sand throughly. There’s no need to sand heavily if you plan on upholstering the top. Center and attach the top, with screws.