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Wood Dollhouse Furniture Plans

One thing I have been wanting to get on my site are these DIY dollhouse furniture plans.These are intended and designed to be easy for preschoolers and children play with and are stronger than most realistic dollhouse miniatures. However, these will break if abused, so be mindful of your child’s temperament  before making them.  I would recommend ages 5 and up, but if you have a mature child at a younger age, they’d probably work fine. We built them through for a 3 year old, and have had two boys grow up with playing with them since toddling around.  Most have made it through absolutely fine.  Others, I made stronger and updated the plans below to reflect those changes.

**Disclaimer** I’m not responsible for broken pieces, choking hazards, or toxic paints. You make them, you’re responsible for supervising your kids and researching materials.


2-3 – 1 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 24″ Aspen, Poplar or Maple
(1)  3 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 24″ Aspen, Poplar or Maple
(1)  5 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 24″ Aspen, Poplar or Maple
Variety pack of Short dowels, ranging from 1/8″ to 1/2″ diameter
5/8″ Dowel (lamp)
3/8″ Square ‘dowels’
Wood Glue *
Paperclips (to create ‘hinges’)
Craft Paint/ Wax / Sealant *

Hand Saw  & Miter Box*
Sandpaper –  course grit () to shape wood –  and a fine grit() to  smooth
Wire Cutters

*See Comments Below


The number of pieces you’ll want to make may vary so there is no large formal cutlist. Cut are just listed piece by piece.

(1) 1 1/2″ x 1″
(1) 1 1/2″ x 1 1/4″
(1)1 1/2″ x 1″
Either (1) 1 1/4 x 1/4″ diameter dowel OR
(1) 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ cut to 3/4″ x 1/2″ for support

There are two methods for making this char a little stronger.  Using dowels might be easier if you have a drill press.  Drill a 1/4″ hole 1/8″ deep in both the front and the back of the chair centered from the sides and 1/2″ from the bottom.  Or you can glue the cut wood just under the center of the seat of the chair for support.

Kitchen table
(1) 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2″
(2) 3 1/4″ x 2″

Create an X under the table for support.  Sand to make sure it sits flat.


(1) 5″ x 1 3/4″
(1) 5″ x 2 1/2″
(2) 1 1/2″ x 2 3/8″

Glue the seat and back of the seat together first, 90° apart.  While that is drying shape the sides.  When the center is dry, glue it to the sides, angling the seat so it’s parallel with the angle of the sides.

(1) 3 1/2″ x 1 3/4″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
(1) 2 1 1/2″ x 2 3/8″

Same as above.

Coffee table

(1) 3 1/2″ x 2″
(4) 7/8″ x 1/4″ dowels

Sand the table to a smooth shape.  Drill 4 1/4″ holes 1/8″ deep spaced ~1/2″ in from each side.  Glue the dowels in place, then after they’re dry sand them so the legs sit flush on the ground.

Coming Soon

Kitchen Set
Coming Soon

Double Bed
(1) 5 1/2″ x 1 5/8″
(1) 5 1/2″ x 2 5/8″
(1) 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″
(2) 3/8″ x 3/8″ Square dowel (supports)

Single Bed

(1) 3 1/2″ x 1 5/8″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2 5/8″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 5 1/2″
(2) 3/8″ x 3/8″ Square dowel (supports)

Wood Dollhouse Crib

(2) 3 1/2″ x 3″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2″
(2) 1 1/2″ 3 1/2″ (check actual width of above board before cutting)

(3) 1 1/2″ x 1 3/8″
(1) 1 1/2″ x 7/8″

(2) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/4″
(2) 1 1/2″ x 3″
(4) 1 1/2″ x 3/4″
(2) 3 1/2″ x 3/4″ then cut to 2 3/16″ x 3/4″
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2″ (top)
(1) 3 1/2″ x 2 1/ 4″ (back)
(2) 3 1/2″ x 1 1/8″
(2) Pieces of cardboard
(2) 5/8″ x 3/16″ diameter dowel sanded flat on one side

After the dresser is assembled, check the fit of the drawers prices.  Be sure to check width of the 2 3/16″ drawer back for ease of sliding in the dresser before gluing the drawers together.  On the back of the dresser drawer front, use a thin bladed saw (like a hacksaw) to create a slit just over 1/4″ from the bottom. This is for the cardboard to slide into.   We used pieces cut up cereal boxes for the bottom of drawers. When glued on all edges, they’re actually quite strong.  Assemble the drawers so the slit is just under the bottom of the sides.  After that assembly is dry, glue the cardboard in place.

Coming Soon

(1) 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ cut down to 3/4″ x 3/4″
(1) 3″ x 3/8″ diameter dowel
(1) 3/4″ x 5/8″ diameter dowel


Fishing Rod

(1) 1 1/2″ x 2″
(1) 1 1/2″ x  1/2″


The wood glue you choose is very important. This is what keeps your kids from breaking the furniture apart (in addition to the design). From what I’ve read, wood glue needs to be no older than a year to hold properly. Invest in the strongest wood glue you see (but not the biggest bottle – it goes bad, remember).

Invest in some clamps.  In the long run, the furniture we clamped together with a real clamp are still going strong, but the ones we just ‘held tightly’ in place by hand or with tape fell apart.

I used regular acrylic craft paint for color and butcher block wax as a sealant. Pre-painting the pieces individually gives a nice clean lines, but don’t pre-paint the side/section you are gluing. Otherwise the glued joint is only as strong as the paint – not strong at all!  Also, be warned the paint didn’t take the wax at all.

I struggled to find a good, ecofriendly, childsafe sealant. In the end, I found that options used for chopping blocks or salad bowls seemed safest. Waxes wear over time (and possibly rot if done wrong), and can feel a bit greasy at first. Sealants (for salad bowls) would work well, but are toxic before they cure.

Pre-sanding smooth the strip of wood before cutting saved a lot of time. I only had to worry about sanding the edges where I cut later.  Using maple would likely be nice and smooth without any sealing.

We used a basic handsaw and miter box for the project. We made the miter box out of scrap wood following Bob Vila’s tutorial, but a store bought one doesn’t cost much and works a little better.  Using a circular saw is an option, but the wood may chip out.  A smaller craft miter box and saw is also an option, and run about $10  -$15 at craft stores.


Make some yourself? Send us your pictures!

6 Responses to Wood Dollhouse Furniture Plans

  1. Christina says:

    Thanks for sharing this! I’m going to make some of these for my daughter for Christmas.

  2. Tracy says:

    Hello, I love your plans for this solid dollshouse furniture. I’m planning on making this for my little girl. Do you have any clear photos to show the assembly of the kitchen table?
    Many thanks

    • Cassie says:

      I apologize, have to update these plans soon. I do have new pictures to post, with more instructions.

      My husbands first attempt at making the table used square legs glued to the bottom (on paint), not countersunk. That table broke after a few weeks. At that point we just used a block to hold it up, so it was still useful (as you can see in several of the pictures). Gluing a large square block (1″x1″ scrap) to the tabletop would probably have worked well, especially with younger kids.

      However, plan was to use an X, but I decided that was more work then I wanted to put in and would require more sanding of the paint on the bottom. I didn’t want to use the block though, so I ended up drilling holes for dowels like the coffee table. It’s held up great, with normal play (even with a 2 year old), but I expect an adult foot could still break off a leg easily.

      HTH, Cassie

  3. Liz foote says:

    I love your plans and would like to try them. My dad has all the tools and is going to cut the wood for me and then when I get back home I’m going to put them together. I know you mentioned that the fridge plans are coming up soon but I was wondering how you would do the fringe hinges? Is it a pin from the top or a butterfly hinge? I’m always confused by hinges and I just don’t want to have my dad cut up the wood until I fully understand how the hinges work.

  4. Liberty says:

    I have been looking all day for plans like these !! I love it ! Can’t wait to see the rest !!!

  5. Stephanie says:

    Thank you for so generously sharing these plans! I’m making a dollhouse for my daughter for Christmas and your furniture plans are exactly what I was looking for. Your generosity will bless my family this Christmas season. Thank you!

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