Here’s my sewing table plans, made to adapt to an existing table. This sewing table tutorial uses the IKEA INGO table as it’s base, but you can use most any table you have, or even DIY the entire table! If you use these plans on your blog, feel free to link back or even send me an email and I’ll link to you.
Given that every sewing machine is different and every table will be different, I can’t give any set dimensions, or even a concrete cut list for this plan…. But I can provide a basic list. It’ll cost about $5-$15 in materials to convert a table, but this project can be great for using up plywood scraps. This is a fairly simple project, that beginners can complete. You can see my blog post here for more pictures, or scroll down for more links to other completed tables.
(1) 2″x2″ board , 8′ long
(1) 3/4″ thick x 8″ wide board. The length depends on your machine and you’ll need about 6″ longer than your sewing machine (6″ is generous and you may cut that down more later). FYI Home depot sells some boards by the foot. Scrap plywood at least 3/4″ thick would also work.
(4) 5/16″ – 24 bolts, About 4″ long (choose about the 1/2″ larger than the height from the surface of your sewing machine to the bottom)
(4) Washers, at least 3/8″ inner diameter
(4) 5/16″ – 24 Nuts (Flange Locknuts with a nylon insert would be best, so the machine vibrations don’t slowly unscrew the nuts)
1 3/4″ long Drywall/or Wood Screws
(Optional) Coarse Pocket screws
(Optional) Plastic bolt caps
A Table – If you don’t have one already, I like this cheap INGO table from IKEA. Also, you could try building your own sewing table. I think adapting this plan from Ana White would work excellently. (EDIT: See below for images of a sewing table made from that plan.)
Sandpaper (course and fine grit)
Drill (with a 5/8″ Bit & 3/8″ Bit)
(Optional Pocket Hole Jig)
1) Pencil the shape of your sewing machine on top, I would say about a 1/8″ wider than your sewing machine on all sides. It’s personal preference how far back you put the machine, but I like to have the needle 8.5″ from the front edge.
Note: Make sure you leave enough room to the right about to fit the support board (about 2.75″ from the edge). Also leave enough room from the side if your cords are going to be sitting below the table. It might be worth cutting out a small area to the side to reach your cords from the top of the table, as you can see my friend did in the image at the bottom of this page.
2) Before cutting the hole with a jigsaw, first drill a pilot hole on the inside of your soon-to-be hole. Then place the jigsaw bit in the hole and start cutting from there. Gently curve onto the line you traced and continue until you finish cutting out the hole. Then use sandpaper to sand the edges smooth. Using sandpaper around a large dowel/pipe help smooth out the corner radius. Test with your sewing machine to make sure it fits in and out (it should be snug, but you shouldn’t have to fight to get it out). Keep sanding with coarse paper at until you get it to size, then smooth it down with fine sandpaper. If you accidentally cut it too wide, gluing a a craft foam strip along the edges will help keep it in place and dampen any vibrations.
3) Cut the 2″x2″ board into two pieces, each to the distance between the supports of your table. (You could optionally have cut them shorter and attach to the right side or top only… it all depends on your materials, table and machine.) At this point, if your tabletop is already off, you could attach the 2″x2″s with a pocket screw to the front and back, but it’s not necessary. Mark the 4 bolt holes (used to support the machine) just to the inside of the width of the machine as shown in the image below. Then drill 3/8″ through-holes at your marks and countersink with a 5/8″ inch bit, down to about 3/8″ deep.
4) Place the bolts in the countersunk holes and with the table flipped upside down, set the supports into place (if you haven’t done so already with pocket screws). They should be within an inch of the cutout for your machine, but don’t have to be flush with it (but make sure you don’t space them wider than the length of your platform board!!). Once positioned, screw the 2″x2″ supports to the top of the table. The number of screws you use to attach it to the tabletop depends on the weight of the machine. My sewing machine is solid metal and weighs 25+ lbs, so I compensated for my heavy machine and used several (5) screws fastening securely to the top.
5) Cut the long side of the 8″ wide platform board about 1″ bigger than the distance between the bolts. Optionally, you can also rip the short side to about the width of your sewing machine (or plan ahead and buy a narrower board in the first place) . Sand down the edges of the platform well, as your legs (and kids) will likely be under there. Drill 3/8″ holes in the platform matching the spacing of the bolts. Remember, measure twice,
cut drill once! Then raise the platform on the bolts and secure with the washer and nuts.
6) Place your sewing machine on the platform and twist the locknuts until the machine is flush with the table top. It’s a good idea to put some duct tape or bolt caps on the bottom of the bolts if ever think your legs (or kids) will ever accidentally hit it.
The table at the top of the post is mine. Check out more real life pictures of the underside of my table on my blog.
This is the table my friend made following my blog post. It was the first time she ever used a jigsaw. Didn’t she do a great job?
Jean, at The Quilted Cupcake made a “happy accident” and ended up with a shelf under her table for support. Although it’s not adjustable, the height of the sides worked great for her machine. She also drilled a hole in the front for the foot lever (…. and maybe someday I’ll get around to doing that for mine.) She also added a sheet of vinyl on the top to keep it slick- check hers out here!
This entire sewing table was DIYed by Tina using this plan. Materials were around $125 for the whole table and it’s super roomy!